I mean yeah it did come with instructions but I didn't even understand those because I didn't actually want to order a drill or read them. Yes, I have a PINK DRILL and it doesn't suck. 

Cordless drills range from 30-200 dollars. I had NO clue what to get. I looked around for a month before I finally grabbed it on a one day sale. I was impressed with everything it came with! It has the 20V Compact Drill, Tool Bag, Max Charger, Battery Packs, Drill Bits, screwdriver bits and a nice carrying case. I had no idea what all that meant but it seemed legit and if nothing else I could throw some stuff in the bag. 

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How many volts do I need? Long story, short  volts = power - The higher the voltage the stronger and faster the drill. I recommend getting at least get an 18V to drill through wood w/ DIY projects. They make compact models that weigh less and still perform as well as a full size and can also fit in tighter spaces. The 12v is essentially a screwdriver, it is great for putting screws in things that have already had screws in them, but they do not shine at creating new holes or driving screws into things.

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There is a button on each side that is used to change the drill rotation direction. Clockwise to drill and drive screws. Counter-clockwise to remove screws and bolts. I still get this wrong <3

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The numbered ring around the drill body is called the clutch. It determines the amount of torque the drill can apply to a fastener. the higher the number the more torque applied. Soft metals such as brass or short fasteners may benefit from a lower setting, other than that. > When you use the drill - use it as a drill. #turnitup #itsfine #googleit

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There is also a switch on the top labeled 1 & 2, you also sometimes see a third setting but it is less common. They are speed settings and change the gearing of the drill,  1= High torque/lower rpm's. 2= Less torque/higher rpm's . The high torque setting could be used for removing longer screws from treated wood but please be sure to have a tight and firm grip when using the high torque setting, it will put out tremendous amounts of force and if you are not prepared can smash your hand or fingers against the substrate and in some cases may press your hand against the trigger not allowing you to release it.

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The charger pops on similar to a child's toy so you can probably figure that part out. They typically have some sort of flashing light indicating the charge status and some also have an audible alert as well.

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High speed drill bits. Basically a spiral cut rod used to cut or bore holes in a substrate, They make various styles and types for drilling into different substrates.

Screwdriver bits. Come in various shapes and sizes to match the various screwheads and bolts. We can get into types of screw heads at a later date but I will say-  The square head and the torx head screws tend to work very well if you are concerned with stripping out screw heads. ( stripping is a term used to describe cutting the head out of the screw so the bit just spins freely causing the screw to remain stuck, typically caused by using the wrong bit or too little pressure.) A good set of screwdriver  bits with extensions is a must!

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Other Drill attachments.

I always thought drills were for making holes or putting screws in things. I WAS WRONG! there is a plethora of drill attachments ranging from sponges and brushes for cleaning, Wheels and stones for cutting and grinding metal, paint removal attachments. sanding attachments, the list goes on. There are even attachments that allow you to insert a screw around corners! Take a look, you'll be surprised!

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Now This brings us to Batteries.

This is the Heart of the drill -
Most drills you will see on shelves today are using a chemistry called Lithium Ion. These batteries are also used in everything from electronic cigarettes to vehicles.

They consist of cells which are configured in such a way that they produce the voltage and current requirements for the drill to operate. Something to look for when looking to purchase a new drill is the AH, or Amp Hour rating on the battery. Amp Hour is a unit of measurement, for example if you see a drill with a 3AH battery. That means that the battery is capable of supplying 3 amps of current for one hour before being totally depleted and needing to be charged. Depending on how much stress you place on the drill motor will determine the amount of current that is drawn from the battery. You can drill holes in Styrofoam all day with little to no effect on the battery...but if you are screwing 3 1/2 ' deck screws into treated 2x6's, you better have a back up battery on hand. There are TONS of different batteries with different AH ratings, The higher the number the longer they last, but they are also going to be larger and heavier. Make the decision on which battery is a good fit for you based on how often you use your drill, how hard you use your drill, and what weight is manageable.
Occasionally you see a NiCad battery on a drill but most have been phased out by L-ion because they just do not have the capacity or longevity of newer batteries. They also tend to build a "memory" which causes the battery lose its ability to take a charge over time. I wont bore you with the how and why of it all but in a nutshell, a buildup forms within the battery which causes both ends to meet in the center and the battery can no longer function due to an internal short circuit.

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So now that we know what a drill is and what it does, allow me to take a moment to discuss the "No,No" 

Drills, like all power tools, can be dangerous if used incorrectly. Drilling screws into drywall inside your home sounds simple enough, but it is to possible to unknowingly drill into a live wire inside the wall which could result in electric shock. When mounting things inside the interior of your home a good stud finder is worth its weight in spackling. *lol* They make them with live wire detection which will inform you if there is any wires behind the drywall before you drill into it.
 You never want to use your drill on something that is in your hands or lap. Place it on a table or some other safe sturdy object. When a screw or bit comes through the back side it comes out with more force than you would think and if you have it in your lap. It WILL go into your leg. You are not fast enough to pull back, you are not quick enough with the trigger, Do not do it - also use care when putting screws into substrates, your bit can slip out of the screw head and will travel forward stabbing your bit into the substrate, or your hand if you are unlucky enough to be in its path. Be aware of these things and other possible safety concerns and take measures to prevent them.  

 

 

Did I say to use  safety glasses. <3

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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I use Affiliate Links in my post to recommend products that I have PERSONALLY used. This is at NO extra cost to you. #thanksforthecoffee. I actually made my first 3.00 "working for myself" and I couldn't be more proud of that 3.00. 

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Is there any DIY y'all want me to tackle next week?

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-Average A

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